From Earth’s Oldest Crystal to Timeless Jewellery: The Story of Zircon

At Prins & Prins, we believe that the finest jewellery tells a story—one that begins long before a gem meets the hands of a skilled jeweller. Among the many remarkable gemstones we work with, few are as historically rich or optically brilliant as zircon. Often overshadowed by diamonds or confused with synthetic cubic zirconia, natural zircon is a treasure in its own right—radiant, fascinating, and incredibly old.

What is Zircon?

Zircon is a natural mineral—zirconium silicate (ZrSiO₄)—that has formed over billions of years deep within the Earth’s crust. It is not to be confused with cubic zirconia, a man-made diamond simulant. In fact, zircon is a gemstone with ancient roots, dating back over 4.4 billion years. Some of the oldest known minerals on Earth are zircon crystals, making them geological time capsules that preserve a record of our planet’s early formation.

What sets zircon apart in the world of gemstones is its brilliance, fire, and double refraction. It has a high refractive index (1.92–1.98) and strong dispersion, meaning it reflects light with a fiery sparkle that rivals diamonds. Its strong pleochroism and ability to “double” the back facets when viewed from certain angles add to its allure and uniqueness.

A Kaleidoscope of Colour

One of zircon’s most appealing characteristics is its range of colours. From golden yellows to fiery reds, vibrant greens, icy whites, and the highly sought-after sky blue, zircon offers something for every style and mood.

• Blue Zircon: The most popular variety, typically achieved through heat treatment. Its vivid hue and brilliance make it a favourite for centre stones in rings and earrings.

• Green and Red Zircon: Rare and often prized by collectors for their unique tones.

• Colourless Zircon: Once used as a diamond substitute, especially in the 1800s, it’s known as Matara zircon when sourced from Sri Lanka.

• Golden and Brown Zircon: These earthy tones give zircon a warm, vintage appeal—perfect for antique-style jewellery.

Regardless of colour, zircon’s intense sparkle makes it a showstopper in any setting.

A Glimpse into History

Zircon has been known and admired for centuries. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to bring wisdom, honour, and prosperity. It was also believed to promote restful sleep and repel evil spirits. By the Victorian era, zircon became popular in jewellery—especially as a diamond alternative in brooches, pendants, and rings.

Sri Lanka has long been a major source of fine zircon, especially the colourless and golden varieties. Other important zircon sources include Cambodia, Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Tanzania, and Madagascar.

Quality and Durability

When assessing zircon, the four Cs—colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight—apply just as they do with other gems:

• Colour: Blue is most in demand, followed by red, green, and colourless.

• Clarity: Most zircons are eye-clean, though some may contain fine inclusions or zoning.

• Cut: Zircon is typically faceted in brilliant styles to enhance its sparkle. The precision of the cut is key to showcasing its double refraction.

• Carat: Larger zircons are readily available and relatively affordable, even in fine qualities.

With a Mohs hardness of 6 to 7.5, zircon is moderately durable. While suitable for most jewellery, it should be worn with care in rings or bracelets due to its tendency to chip or abrade over time. It’s best suited to earrings, pendants, and special occasion rings.

How to Care for Zircon Jewellery

Zircon should be cleaned gently and stored with care to preserve its beauty.

Do:

• Use lukewarm water, mild soap, and a soft brush

• Store it in a fabric-lined box or pouch

• Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals

Don’t:

• Use ultrasonic or steam cleaners

• Knock or drop zircon jewellery, especially rings

Why Choose Zircon?

Zircon is an ideal choice for those looking for:

• Exceptional brilliance comparable to diamonds

• Affordability in a natural, sparkling gemstone

• Historical significance, with some stones being billions of years old

• A unique and less conventional birthstone for December

• A gemstone that captures light, fire, and individuality

It’s especially attractive to those who want a fine gem with character—something that tells a deeper story, both visually and geologically.

Zircon at Prins & Prins

At Prins & Prins, we select only the finest natural zircons for our collections. Whether you’re drawn to the icy brilliance of Matara zircon, the celestial hue of blue zircon, or the rich romance of red and golden tones, our gemmologists are here to guide you in finding the perfect piece.

Looking for something truly unique? We also offer bespoke jewellery design services, allowing you to create a one-of-a-kind zircon jewel—crafted with expert precision and timeless elegance.

Visit Us

Explore our collection of zircon jewellery in our Cape Town showroom or book a consultation with one of our GIA-trained gemmologists. Discover how this ancient gem can add fire, colour, and meaning to your personal jewellery story.

Sources:

• Gemological Institute of America (GIA):
  https://www.gia.edu/zircon

• International Gem Society (IGS):
  https://www.gemsociety.org/article/zircon-jewelry-and-gemstone-information/
  https://www.gemsociety.org/article/zircon-value-price-and-jewelry-information/