Rethinking Diamond Grading: Should Lab-Grown Diamonds Be Assessed Like Natural Diamonds?

As the diamond industry evolves, a crucial question emerges for both jewellers and consumers alike:
Should lab-grown diamonds be graded using the same standards applied to natural diamonds?

With technological innovation reshaping the gemstone landscape, this conversation delves deep into questions of diamond grading standards, value perception, and transparency in the marketplace.

The Rise of Lab-Grown Diamonds and the Grading Dilemma

Since lab-grown diamonds became commercially viable, industry experts have debated whether they should be evaluated using the traditional GIA diamond grading system—the same system meticulously developed to assess the rarity and value of natural diamonds.

Initially, leading organizations like the GIA and De Beers’ Lightbox brand proposed simplified, category-based assessments for lab-grown stones. The intent was clear: to distinguish man-made diamonds from their natural counterparts. However, the lab-grown diamond industry lobbied for parity, arguing that equivalent grading would legitimize their products and support consumer confidence.

Unfortunately, market dynamics—perhaps influenced by economic pressure more than principle—led to widespread adoption of full Four C grading reports for lab-grown stones, mirroring those used for natural diamonds.

Cost vs Value: The Irony of Grading Lab-Grown Diamonds

Today, the cost of producing a lab-grown diamond has dropped dramatically. In many cases, the cost of a formal grading report exceeds the wholesale value of the stone itself.

To reduce costs, producers and retailers have implemented streamlined grading systems that differ significantly from the impartial, independent evaluations applied to natural diamonds.

Some examples include:

• In-factory grading by the International Gemological Institute (IGI), conducted directly at manufacturing facilities in India and China.

   

• Batch verification procedures by the GIA for De Beers’ Lightbox brand, rather than individual assessments.

   

• Reports from the Grown Diamond Trade Organization, based on internal quality controls rather than external lab verification.

   

These methods highlight the growing divide in diamond grading standards between natural vs lab-grown diamonds, both in methodology and intent.

A Shift Toward Fashion Jewellery

It is becoming increasingly clear that lab-grown diamonds are carving out their own niche—not as rivals to natural diamonds, but as accessible, stylish alternatives for fashion jewellery. In this segment of the market, grading reports are often unnecessary. The stones are typically identified as lab-grown in invoices and insurance valuations, without detailed quality documentation.

Still, many consumers are presented with lab-grown diamonds grading reports that closely resemble those issued for natural diamonds, leading to possible misconceptions. These reports may imply that each stone has undergone rigorous evaluation by independent gemologists, which is rarely the case.

Transparency Matters

When evaluating a diamond, clarity in grading is essential. Consumers deserve to know whether a lab-grown diamond has been graded:

• By the original grower or manufacturer,

   

• Through a batch process rather than individually,

   

• By staff employed by the retailer,

   

• Or via third-party lab with recognised standards.

   

Without this transparency, even a beautifully designed report may create an illusion of authority and value that doesn’t hold up under scrutiny.

Do Diamond Grades Still Matter?

Without a doubt—yes. Diamond grades exist to reflect and communicate quality, rarity, and ultimately, value. The GIA system was meticulously engineered to serve this purpose for natural diamonds, where geological rarity plays a critical role in pricing and provenance.

Applying the same system to lab-grown diamond quality, which lacks that inherent rarity, creates confusion and can unintentionally mislead consumers.

The Need for a New Standard

Rather than mimicking the grading system designed for natural diamonds, the lab-grown diamond industry should consider developing its own tailored framework. With advancements in gemological technology, there are now sophisticated tools that can analyze light performance and optical characteristics, offering a new way to measure and communicate quality without relying on outdated comparisons.

Such a shift would establish lab-grown diamonds as a category in their own right—honest in their origin and value, yet appealing in their beauty and accessibility.

Final Thoughts

At Prins & Prins, we believe in informed choices and full transparency. While lab-grown diamonds offer exciting possibilities, especially in the realm of contemporary jewellery, their grading must reflect their unique nature.

Using traditional GIA diamond grading to evaluate something that is no longer rare risks undermining consumer trust. Instead, the industry should embrace innovation—not just in how these diamonds are created, but also in how their quality and value are communicated.